POUILLY FUME DOMAINE BOURGEOIS LA DEMOISELLE DE BOURGEOIS - 2011

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A l’image d’un « grand cru », son potentiel de garde est de 8 à 10 ans.
C’est un vin à découvrir au fil des années car son évolution est très intéressante. Dans les premières années c’est surtout le fruit du sauvignon qui s’exprime avec un côté « terroir » plus discret et une petite note boisée en fin de bouche.

VAL DE LOIRE - CENTRE - POUILLY FUME - BLANC - Note Parker : 89 WS=90
Cépage : Sauvignon Blanc Terroir : Marnes kimméridgiennes Issue d’une sélection rigoureuse des raisins de sauvignon, « La Demoiselle de Bourgeois » est récoltée sur des marnes kimméridgiennes de St Laurent l’Abbaye où les premières vignes de l’appellation furent plantées. Finesse, complexité d’arômes, concentration et plénitude en fruit caractérisent cette prestigieuse sélection. A l’image d’un « grand cru », son potentiel de garde est de 8 à 10 ans. C’est un vin à découvrir au fil des années car son évolution est très intéressante. Dans les premières années c’est surtout le fruit du sauvignon qui s’exprime avec un côté « terroir » plus discret et une petite note boisée en fin de bouche. Au fil du temps, tout devient homogène, le terroir s’exprime, le sauvignon évolué nous fait découvrir une palette aromatique plus complexe et malheureusement si rare. Pour finir la légère note boisée est complètement fondue, ce qui apporte d’avantage de profondeur au vin... Ce vin fermente en cuves inox thermo-régulées (90%), et en fûts de chêne de Tronçais (10%). Élevée sur lies fines de fermentation pendant 7 à 8 mois, cette cuvée n’est embouteillée qu’au début de l’été. Les grands vins ne sont pas durs à marier... Ils s’accordent avec tellement d’aisance que les possibilités sont nombreuses. La première règle à suivre est de vous faire plaisir ; êtes-vous plutôt viandes blanches ou poissons ? « Raie vapeur Pousses d’Epinards jus acidulé », « Suprême de Volaille fermière rôtie Pomme Macaire » source Domaine Henri Bourgeois. Tarragon and chive notes enhance the core of lemon curd, gooseberry and white peach flavors in this stylish white. The pure, lengthy finish shows nice definition. Drink now through 2014. 1,800 cases made. source Wine Spectator. From 30-year-old vines on Kimmeridgian soils in Pouilly-Fume satellite St-Laurent, and raised in small part in older barriques but tasted as a final assemblage, the Bourgeois 2011 Pouilly-Fume Les Demoiselles evokes lime, honeydew melon, mint, basil, and honeysuckle: aromatically delightful, and then present on a generously juicy palate and in a refreshing, sustained finish, marking a dramatic contrast with the tightly constricted concentration exhibited by the corresponding 2010. Given the sense of energy projected here, I can well imagine the wine remaining impressive for the next several years. Jean-Marie Bourgeois, son Arnaud, and nephew Jean-Christophe are only the three most conspicuous members of the extended Bourgeois family - each with his or her specialty, I was told - who oversee nearly 200 acres of vines in 70 villages of Sancerre and Pouilly (at one point comprising nearly a thousand named family plots, though today concentrated into only 120 major parcels), not counting contracts covering vastly more acreage; the 52-acre Domaine Laporte (owned by Bourgeois since 1986, and covered separately in the present report); myriad holdings in less prestigious sectors of the Eastern Loire; and an estate " Clos Henri " in Marlborough, New Zealand. If that sounds overwhelming, believe me, so is the array of wines they presented to me in April, even after concentrating entirely on the two prestigious appellations and skipping the odd cuvee here and there. Time spent in the vineyards with the present generation made clear their degree of dedication and willingness to do things in a labor-intensive (and to a significant degree organic) way. Forty percent of the Bourgeois total acreage - including all of that planted to Pinot - is harvested by hand. There is an ambitious and long-running program - indeed, apparently almost continuous since the estate s 1950 inception - of massale selection and site-matching. And you certainly can t deny that this family is inventive, in for example experimenting as they explained to me with a "musical treatment" of vines being tested to ward off esca. (That s right: the vines are bombarded from loudspeakers!) Forty-two acres of Bourgeois vines are in Chavignol - a third or more in the Monts Damnes - as are an array of sophisticated gravity-fed winemaking, vast cellaring, and fashionably appointed selling facilities, mingled with various family members homes, so that I began to imagine that nearly the whole west side of town is in Bourgeois hands. Special attention is paid to gentle pressing, long-settling, but thereafter the retention and utilization (including stirring) of lees, whether it s for a tank- or barrel-rendered cuvee. I wish I could report that the wines consistently reflect the intense earnestness and articulacy that was evident from my interactions with the affable principles of this estate. The generic and less expensive single-site bottlings I tasted were unexciting and on occasion - even from 2011, though especially in 2010s where Arnaud Bourgeois acknowledges that "the level of malic acid was high" - grassy, green apple-y and marginally under-ripe-tasting. The estate s top-priced bottlings were often pronouncedly bitter and distorted by the influence of oak. The latter group represents wines the team here envisions for long keeping, but the numerous back vintages I tasted - all of which, incidentally, are still for sale as library releases at a slight price premium - suggested fruit rendered fragile and potential floral or mineral nuances easily swept away by time, in part, I suspect, due to the effects of wood, but perhaps also on account of the combination of relatively severe pre-fermentative settling with relatively aggressive later lees-stirring. Happily, between the ground floor and their ostensibly top tier, I found many Bourgeois wines to admire and strongly recommend! source Robert Parker.